Necromunda Goliaths pt 01

Necromunda Goliaths pt 01


In short, I got hooked into the 2017 Necromunda release. I bumped up the Goliath gang miniatures from the boxed set in my painting queue. Last time around (in part 00), I talked about my concept for the gang and essentially everything up to the actual painting part. Which is where Part 01 begins….



The models are a little smaller than the Blood Bowl minis I am accustomed to, so I had to get used to the finer detail size. They are also more complicated to put together. However, having put together a Necromunda ganger from Orlock and Van Saar now, the Goliaths don’t seem as hard anymore. It seems that the models Games Workshop (GW) puts in their boxed sets are easier to put together and paint, than their later team sets. Though with the Van Saar gang at least, I see that it’s much easier to pose them than it would be with the Goliaths. The complexity is a trade-off with the multi-part-gooey-goodness.

The three that I finished up so far, went together okay. I actually fully assembled the guy (below), and it was easy enough to paint him assembled. The others I partially assembled, base painting and then shading all the bits before gluing them together and finishing up with highlights.

I’m all base-painted!

You can see that I labelled each one with the GW name, as I didn’t want to lose the individual parts to the model.



Honestly, I mainly followed the YouTube video from Warhammer TV:

Thanks Duncan!

The major difference is that I primed using “Stylnrez Grey Airbrush Primer”. It’s a primer, that I really love. After that I applied an all over wash of Agrax Earthshade. Being Necromunda, I wasn’t worried about things looking too dirty, so the wash is just fine and helps with differentiating the light and dark areas. I also used my own mix for the flesh, and used Vallejo Game Colors for the heads of the grenades. Full list of paints at the end.

Things did get a little chaotic along the way though, as we had various things going on at home. I ended up painting one model more thoroughly than the others, and forgot which steps I was on at a few points. The flesh on one is a bit different than the others because of this. On some of the models I also couldn’t tell if I applied a weak Agrax Eathshade wash over the paint or none at all. So there are some overall discrepancies.

I also screwed up on the flesh. Originally my vision was a “fake tan”/80s Muscle Magazine look for the Goliaths. Yea, they didn’t come out that way. They lean more towards the ‘sun starved’ look of a Hiver, especially with the stark lights of the new photo booth. Live and learn.



Here’s the first three Bully Boys:



I find this silly, but I haven’t painted GW guns before, and I wasn’t sure what to do with the barrel tip. Looking at the pics of their models online, the barrel tips look to be drilled out slightly. I tried that, but either the hole was off center, or in one particularly bad case, split the gun barrel and I had to glue it back together. Seems like there is probably an easier way?

I might not feel like I was super creative with the paints, but from a technical standpoint these are some of the best minis I’ve painted to date. Definitely good enough for the game table. A lot of the little details, like eyes, can’t even really be seen unless you’re holding them up close. Almost makes me think getting too detailed was a waste of time, but having done it, I will likely continue the practice across teams.

“You lookin at me?”

Wrap Up

Technically I met the ‘3 unit’ criteria for JUNIT (Azazel’s June Miniature Challenge). So even if I really get in a horrible time crunch, I could still submit these. But my plan is to finish 3 more gangers before the end of the month. I think it took me me about 3 weeks to finish these, though some of that was time spent priming and other stuff. It feels like a safe bet that I can finish up a 6 man gang for Necromunda by the end of the month.

All in all, super nice to know that I’m really close to having the gang done and a fourth of the way towards starting a small Necromunda campaign with the teenager.

Oh yea, I nearly forgot…


The Paints!

You can see that various bits were painted differently. For instance, chest plates are sometimes all metal (leadbelcher), but sometimes Mephiston Red with Leadbelcher trim. Same goes with any armor plates, shin/forearm guards, etc. I opted to switch things up (just like the examples on GW’s product page), just to keep things interesting. So wherever I reference “bits”, it’s a piece where I’m varying the colors between models.

My order for applying the paints ended up a little differently than Duncan’s. I feel this worked better, allowing me to tackle smaller, harder to reach areas and then fixing up any mistakes with the next coat. A prime example is the piping on the pants (painting the red, then cleaning up with grey) and the gap between the chest armor and belt (painting the flesh, then the brown straps above those, then you can clean up any mess on the chest plate trim with leadbelcher).

Prime: Stylnrez Grey Airbrush Primer

Base Shade: Agrax Earthshade – all over

Base Layers

Mephiston Red: Armor bits, Pants – stripes, Gun bits, Forearm guard bits, Shin/boot bits

Eshin Grey – Pants, Boots. I mainly painted in the recesses, leaving the Grey primer showing as highlights

Mournfang Brown – leather straps

Panzer Aces (PA) Flesh Base (3 thin coats)
Highlight: Vallejo Model Color (VMC) Base Skin Tone and PA Flesh Base 50/50
Extreme Highlight: VMC Base Skin Tone and PA Flesh Base 75/25
Reikland Fleshshade and Water 25/75 – all over Flesh

Leadbelcher – Armor bits, Gun bits, Forearm guard bits, Shin/boot bits, Metal head bits, Spikes, Grenade bits, Mechanical harness bits on back, Metal buckles on straps.

I also found that Leadbelcher worked really well as an undercoat for Balthasar Gold too. So on the next three I will probably paint all the metal bits with Leadbelcher first, and then figure out which bits to paint gold or silver. Though the Leadbelcher paint also tended to be a little on the gunky side, and was my least favorite of these Citadel paints to paint with.

Balthasar Gold- Armor bits, Gun bits, Forearm guard bits, Shin/boot bits, Metal head bits, Grenade bits (such as handles), Mechanical harness bits on back

Khorne Red – Hair, Tubes on neck, two tubes on Mechanical Harness (lower back area)

VGC Goblin Green – heads of Frag Grenades

VGC Heavy Red – heads of Krak Grenades


Agrax Earthshade – everything except flesh and hair. If careful, won’t need to reapply over Mephiston Red. Otherwise redo the Mephiston Red after the Agrax wash.


Sorry, hair and terrain are things that I usually just “wing it” and don’t take very good notes on.

Khorne red,  Reikland Flesh Shade, highlighted VGC Squid Pink

Orange – some VGC Orange, some VGC yellow streaks, Reikland Fleshshade wash


Evil Sunz Scarlet – edge highlight over Mephiston and Khorne Red

Stormhost Silver- edge highlight over Leadbelcher

Sycorax Bronze – edge highlight Balthasar Gold

Skrag Brown – edge highlight Mournfang Brown

Eyes & Teeth:

VGC Bonewhite. Though I am tempted to add a touch of white to the Bonewhite before I paint the sclera (white) of the eye next time. The tiny pupil was just a few dots of black.


Skrag brown, super thinned with water for a rust effect on Leadbelcher bits. Nihilakh Oxide as corrosion on Balthasar Gold bits.


23 thoughts on “Necromunda Goliaths pt 01

  1. Like these guys! They seem to complement each other nicely, so look forward to seeing more!
    Whenever I’ve had trouble drilling out gun barrels, I usually punch a plasticard disc out with a leather punch, mark the centre with a knife blade and then drill it out and stick it over the end of the gun – this works better with sci-fi weapons because it doesn’t look out of place! If I drill off centre, I just chuck that bit and start again, so at the worst I just foul up a couple of bits of plastic!

    Liked by 4 people

    1. Very good idea for centering gun barrel holes. I am not as precise as you are, I mark a guide with a hobby knife, eyeballing it, and then drill. If I mess up, I blame the Emperor and add that to the list of grievances that I will never forget and will let fester as I cherish my hate…. Sorry getting off topic. 🙂

      Liked by 5 people

      1. Actually Ann, I’m not that precise and a Mark 1 Eyeball is good enough! And, as you’ve said, paint does the job on smaller guns! When it all goes wrong, I’m maybe more economical, and far less eloquent, than yourself with the cursing!

        Liked by 2 people

  2. Thanks JNV! They are a pretty fun bunch to put together, now that I am getting the hang of things. I like SciFi over Fantasy, so that likely adds to my enjoyment.

    Thanks for the tip. Sounds like there is no getting around drilling, so I just need to be more careful. Probably a smaller drill bit to start with.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. They look good, you did a nice job on them. I personally don’t drill the barrels on weapons where the business end is kind of small like cultists and perhaps some of these guys. If I feel the need to do something I might put a black dot on the end of the barrel using a toothpick dipped in paint for the purpose.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Thanks Ann! Yea, the tip of the red/black gun was small enough that a drop of black would do. The grenade launcher and the Stub Gun/Rifle are much bigger, so I felt they needed some sort of indentation. I probably just need to be more careful next time around.

      Liked by 2 people

  4. Well they all look very good to me and I like the fact that you kept an audit trail of the paints you used. I guess this is a must for armies and something I’ll take note of if and when I go down that route.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks TIM! It wasn’t too hard, as most of those were listed in the video. The only parts I had to keep track of is where I subbed in some Vallejo or Panzer Aces paints. I even managed to screw up that small part, because I didn’t keep track of the hair.

      I find a ‘paint log’ to be pretty useful though. With the Dwarves, I was logging everything through posts. But now I’m not boring everyone with the in-between steps, so I’ve lost that logging guide. I’ve decided to keep a small notebook beside the painting area now. That’s really nice. Especially when one mini gets ahead of the other, then I can record “Tiny Tim – Glorious Gold – 2” and I’ll know what color I applied last and how many coats they are on. The plan is to jot down my notes in-between or at the very least, end of each session. Stay tuned, in a couple of months, I’ll have forgotten all about logging, and rediscovered it! ;P

      Liked by 1 person

  5. I am interested in learning more about this 40k direction. I will be looking out for some reading material, as I have no time yet(or any salary) to start collecting mini’s.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hmm, I wonder if one could do ‘Necromunda on the Cheap’? Our first game used tsome cardstock standups I made by printing out images of the characters. Mainly because I knew it would take me forever to get the minis painted, and I wanted to play to see what I thought of the game. Combine that with some cheap terrain pieces (legos, plastic cups, medicine bottles, etc.) and you only need some rules to play.

      Liked by 1 person

        1. Thanks man! Yea, most mini games can easily sub in other items or minis. I often used D&D plastic minis in our Blood Bowl league for teams I didn’t have. A big plus that they were prepainted, so I didn’t have to worry about rushing to paint them right away.

          Liked by 1 person

  6. They look great man! Love the eyes. One small suggestion I’d offer up is adding some scratches to the shoulder and thigh armour plates but they’re certainly not lacking. Top notch fella 👍🏼

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks IRO! Great tip on the scratch placement. I put a few, but I didn’t put much thought into where those would end up on the overall model. I’ll try to add some more in before the Junit photo. 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Pete! I think I resisted for about a whole month, haha!

      It’s probably a more fitting game for me these days than Blood Bowl. Fewer models to paint, quicker games, and I can expand into terrain later if I like. Will see more of what I think once we get our mini campaign going.

      Liked by 2 people

  7. Thank you Mark! I wish the camera pics had turned out a bit better, something I’m always toying with. Glad you like the bases, I owe it all to a youtube video. I’ll be doing a short post on the bases in a couple weeks.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. Nice work on this trio. They’re looking pretty sweet.
    For drilling gun barrels, I just have an extra hobby knife (xacto style) where I’ve clipped a single dressmaker’s pin and screwed that in – so the hobby “knife” has a pin instead of a blade. I carefully use that to drive a centre point, and then take it from there with the drill bits. I mostly use a 0.9mm bit for barrels. I only go (slightly) larger when it’s really needed.
    For scratches, consider the foam-dab method.

    With the light box, the lighting on your models seems quite strong/harsh which makes them look much more washed out than I assume they are IRL – do you have filters over the lights?

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Thanks as always for the advice! Glad you like the boys.

      I’ll have to look at what drill bits, I have. The guns in Necromunda seem to vary quite a bit in size. The Goliath Stub Cannons are pretty large. I should probably look up something similar so I have a good idea of barrel thickness, before drilling holes.

      Yea, the pics have been a challenge. Long story short, still working on it. The new box didn’t have a filter, but I’ve added one since. Hopefully the pics will be improved by the time I’m ready for the Junit post. 🙂

      Liked by 2 people

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